Who doesn't enjoy a train ride - I know I certainly do. We arrived at the glorious Dunedin Railway Station, with no time to take a few photos of the Flemish Renaissance style building. Built in 1906 the booking hall is decorated with Royal Dalton tiles and has a beautiful mosaic floor. Robin and I had been here several times over the years, so you will just have to take my word for it that the Railway Station is an amazing building indeed. Our train was waiting and it was time for our group to jump aboard.
Our group took over one of the vintage carriages, with about 10 extra people as well. Off we went, traveling through the city centre, to the Tairei Gorge, and back. What an adventure.
All aboard the Taieri Gorge train
The Tairei Gorge is a dramatic 40km canyon, carved by the Tairei River between the Manioto Plateau and the Tairei Plains. The railway line was started in 1879, built to connect Dunedin with Cromwell to support farming and the gold rush in the area. Demand for this rail link dropped as roads improved, and this 60km section through the gorge was saved from closure and now is a popular tourist attraction. The scenery was spectacular and the journey started with us travelling through tree covered hills.
Tree covered hills with the river far below
We passed the remains of several tiny settlements. There must be a story behind this sign. Maybe gold was found in "them thar hills" on Christmas Day?
Christmas Creek
The train trundled along and I swayed as I walked up to the cafe carriage. What to have, a nice hot coffee and a sandwhich will do me nicely for lunch. Eventually the train pulled in to Pukerangi where engine was moved to the other end of the train. Some enterprising locals had stalls set up selling all sorts of things. No, I didn't go and look, I was more interested in watching the engine being moved, although I couldn't really get too close to the action at all.
At Pukerangi
I was looking out the windows on the other side of the train for the journey back, with great views of the rugged landscape. Surely no one could live and work in this sort of country? There were only a few hardy goats around.
Rugged landscape
So back we went, retracing our steps. Going through 10 hand carved tunnels and across 12 viaducts. It's amazing to think of the men doing that work way out here in those early years, using hand tools to chip away on those tunnels. And the effort it must have taken to construct those viaducts. The workmen would have stayed on site, no doubt in very rugged conditions, to get this work done.
One of the many viaducts, taken through the carriage window
We were so lucky with the weather, it was a lovely sunny day. As we headed back to Dunedin Station I reflected on the day, how we had both enjoyed our previous trips in earlier years, and how great it was to be doing it again, one more time.
But the day was far from over. Back at our hotel there was a little time for R&R before getting changed, back into the coach for yet another adventure. We were heading to Larnarch Castle for dinner, about a 13km drive from the city. There was time for a look around the garden.
Larnach Castle
We had a guided tour of the castle and were told stories about the family history. Larnach Castle was constructed in 1871 by William Larnarch, with the very best of materials specified. Marble from Italy, slate from Wales, roof tiles from England, and glass from Venice and France. New Zealand timbers were used and a 3,000 sq ft ballroon added several years later.
William had six children with his first wife Eliza. His daughter Kate died in her 20s, which greatly affected William. He was a cabinet minister in the New Zealand Government for 25 years. He took his own life in the New Zealand Parliament Buildings in 1898 after facing bankruptcy and the loss of his seat in Parliament. His family faced turmoil following his suicide in 1898 with disputes over his estate and the sale of the castle in 1906. The Barker family purchased the property in 1967 which was in a very poor state, with sheep penned in the ballroom! After years of dedication, hard work, and no doubt huge sums of money, the castle and grounds have been returned to their former glory.
On the Castle steps
Dinner was a very Gaelic affair, with a kilted Scotsman reciting Robbie Burn's "Ode to the Haggis", which was then sliced up and distributed along the tables. Yes, I did try some, and finished it - not quite to my taste but I persevered. After all, I do have some Scottish blood in my veins, my maternal grand father was a full blooded Scotsman who emigrated here from Glasgow.
Whisky and Haggis
After tasting the haggis, or not, some decided not to try it, our meals were served. My choices were scallops, followed by lamb, and cheesecake for dessert. Very tasty indeed.
All ready and waiting for dinner
Then a couple of fit young men gave us a sword dancing display.
It was such an enjoyable night. Beautiful surroundings, and lovely food, plus the entertainment. And yes, Robin and I had been to Larnarch Castle many years ago. I remember we had afternoon tea in the gardens, and a tour of the castle. But certainly not an experience like this.
So it was a big day in Dunedin, first the Taerei Gorge trip, then dinner at Larnarch Castle. I climbed in the coach for the trip back to our hotel tired but happy, with so many thoughts of the day buzzing around my head. Just a couple more days of travel, and the trip will be over.
No comments:
Post a Comment