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Tuesday, November 11, 2025

North of the North Tour - Part 3

Day by day, our tour took us to interesting places, some new to me, and some I'd been to before. We stopped for a picnic lunch at the Haruru Falls park in Waitangi.  The crew had earlier stopped at a local cafe to purchase our lunches, and together with a hot cuppa we sat at the picnic tables and enjoyed our lunch.  Then it was a short easy walk to see the Haruru Falls, such a pretty sight.  I had never been here before.

Haruru Falls

The highlight of the day was a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, another first for me, where according to tradition there was a traditional challenge to us visitors.  A young South American man was nominated to take up the challenge on behalf of the whole group, and with a little coaching, he did very well.  The group was then invited into the meeting house where we enjoyed a cultural performance.  The meeting house is richly decorated with wonderful carvings and woven tukutuku panels.



Upper Marae, Waitangi 

The Treaty of Waitangi, signed on 6th February 1840, is a document of central importance to the history of New Zealand and the constitution.  It was signed by Captain William Hobson as consul for the British Crown and Maori Chiefs.  

With two of the performers

Next was a  visit to recently completed Te Rau Aroha museum which featured stories of the famous 28th Maori Battalion Infantry Unit, known for its courage and fighting ability during WW11, and other warriors.  



Inside the Te Rau Aroha Museum

Ever heard of Monganui?  I certainly hadn't.  We were booked into the Monganui Fish Shop for lunch the following day.  The advertising reads "Eat locally caught fish landed at Monganui Wharf by local fishermen while the ocean waves roll under your feet"  The waves certainly did roll under our feet as the fish shop is built out over the water.   Weatherwise, this was the worst day of our trip.  The rain was pouring down, the wind was fierce, and in the middle of eating our lunch the plastic roof covering just couldn't cope in places and the weather came inside!   But the fish and chips were hot and tasty, served in individual little baskets.  There were surprised looks from locals who walked into the dining area to find all the tables taken with a bus load of tourists.  It would be a fabulous experience to dine here on a lovely summer's evening.



Monganui Fish Shop

Then we moved on to the Taipa Beach Resort, another first for me, never been to Taipa before, and enjoyed a BBQ by the pool.   This actually sounded more idyllic  than it was, the wind was rather cold around the poolside  and our  host Kerren had finally succumbed to the sore throat and coughing which had been traveling amongst the bus passengers.  Poor thing, she looked most unwell, and had an early night hoping to recover.  




Taipa Beach Resort

The next day was a real highlight of the tour with a trip up to Cape Reinga.  Poor Kerren spent the day in bed, and we were picked up by our Fullers 4WD Coach for our big adventure.  Our bus driver Peter was having a "busman's holiday" for a change.


Fullers 4WD bus

90 Mile Beach was just as I remembered it.  Although only about 55 miles long, the beach is smooth and flat, and goes on forever.  There was another tour bus on the beach too, with a group of much younger passengers, and they all clambered up the sand dunes and slid down on sleds.  This was offered to us as well, but I think with our older age group there were two things against this activity.  First, would we even be able to make the climb up, and secondly, guess we were worried about falling off and breaking a hip!  Those youngsters had no such fears, and I watched then run back up the hill several times, no trouble at all.


  Oh, to be young and fearless

The bus driver took us up and down hills, driving down to a pretty little sheltered bay where we stopped for a picnic lunch.  Then it was back in the coach again and we traveled on to our destination, Cape Reinga.


Down the walkway, we are almost there

Te Rerenga Wairua, Cape Reinga, is the northernmost point in New Zealand.  Just being here, you can tell it is a very spiritual place indeed.  The Cape is believed to be the departing place of Maori spirits, and where the Tasman and Pacific Oceans meet.  As I looked down at the long steep walkway I reflected that the path seemed much longer than I remembered.  I found out later that the car park had been moved some way back from where it used to be all those years ago on our previous visit.  So it wasn't my imagination at all.



Cape Reinga

It was so nice to have finally made it here, right to the top of the country.  I reflected on the fact that Robin and I had been here 30 plus years ago, and had planned a return trip together next summer.  The weather was fine and hot, and not at all windy.  We all made the walk down the path and back again, and I admit that I had several stops on the steep walk back.  So pleased I had my walking stick for a little extra help.  After such a long day we were pleased to dine in the hotel restaurant that evening, and most of us had an early night.

What was next?  An overnight stay at the quaint Opononi Hotel, it was just like stepping back in time.  The rooms were tiny, but nicely appointed with chocolates for the guests, and this is the view from my balcony.  Just the place to sit and have a coffee, that's after the hotel had to get an electrician to my room after the electric jug shorted!




Opononi Hotel

And who can remember Opo the dolphin from the Summer of  1955-56?  Opo was "world famous" in New Zealand and there was a song about her played on the radio.  She loved swimming with people, tossed beach balls and escorted boats.  The country mourned at her loss when Opo died suddenly in March 1956 and she is buried in front of the War Memorial Hall.     I can remember our caravan club traveling up to stay in the motor camp here in Opononi many years ago.  Some of the electric connection boxes were a bit suspect, and we were lucky that our member Ray was an electrician - he made sure they were safe for us to use.  Ray was called Speedy, as he was always the first to leave camp in the morning, and the first to arrive at our destination.  Just as well for us in this instance.  The hotel receptionist told me that the motor camp no longer exists.


Statue to Opo the Dolphin

Our adventure was winding down and we were heading back to Auckland.  But first, another must see. The final highlight was visiting Tane Mahuta, known as Lord of the Forest, a giant Kauri tree in the Waipoua Forest.   Estimated to be about 2,500 years old, with a girth of 51 feet and 148 feet high, Tane is New Zealand's largest known kauri tree.  A giant of the forest and a spiritual being in his own right, Tane Mahuta is magnificent indeed.  To protect the trees from kauri dieback disease, all visitors must disinfect there shoes when they enter and leave this forest, and keep to the recently completed walkway.


 


Tane Mahuta, Lord of the Forest

Lunch that day was at the quirky Eutopia Cafe in Kaiwaka, and the building looked as it was inspired in part by Hundertwasser but in a more organic theme.  Lunch was very tasty and was  served outside under the very welcome sun umbrellas.


Eutopia Cafe

Then we continued back to Auckland to stay once again at the Waipuna Hotel.  After settling in, we all dined together at the hotel restaurant.  And enjoyed a big breakfast in the morning, before heading south on our last day together.  On the final day of our trip, homeward bound, there was a problem with the coach engine.  Luckily during our lunch stop at Taupo a mechanic was available to check out the problem.  Not so easy, it wasn't what the driver thought it was, and the problem was hard to pin down, after discounting several possibilities.  So the decision was made to continue on our way to Napier.  The coach was very slow going up hills, but performed fine going down hill and along the flat, and we made it up and over the Napier Taupo road.  Plan B would have been to send a second coach to rescue us, but luckily it wasn't needed.


Now, what's wrong here?

After an overnight stay in Napier, I boarded the Inter City Bus the next morning and traveled home to Levin.  Once home I jumped in the car and went to collect Gemma.  It had taken her a couple of days to settle down, the cattery owner told me, after all, she happily traveled with us in the caravan since she was a kitten.  So going to stay in the cattery is quite a new experience for her.


Home at last, she's thinking

So how did I manage on this trip away?  I certainly experienced some sad moments without Robin by my side.  But overall I enjoyed it and it was a great way to see the country, with everything taken care of.  Robin would have loved traveling at our leisure as we had planned, revisiting places we had seen before, and discovering new adventures.  I'm so thankful we had all those happy years together, and got to see so much of our beautiful country.    Any yes, I would do another coach trip away again.

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